McDonald's fried their french fries in beef tallow until 1990. In that year, under pressure from a public health campaign against saturated fat, they switched to vegetable shortening containing partially hydrogenated oil — which, as it turned out, contained trans fats. The switch intended to improve the health profile of McDonald's fries produced a product that was both less flavourful and significantly less healthy than the tallow version it replaced.
The specific compound that made pre-1990 McDonald's fries taste the way they did — the thing everyone remembers about eating those fries as a child — is 2-methyl-2-butenal, a Maillard reaction byproduct produced by beef fat at high frying temperatures. Canola oil at the same temperature produces different, less complex Maillard compounds. The flavour difference is not subtle.
The Double Fry
The double fry is the correct technique for french fries regardless of what fat you use. The first fry at lower temperature (325°F) cooks the potato through, gelatinising the starches inside without browning the exterior. The second fry at higher temperature (375°F) crisps the exterior to a hard, golden crust. A single fry at one temperature produces either a cooked-through fry with no crust or a crispy exterior with a raw interior.
Tallow is particularly good for the double fry because its high saturated fat content means it does not break down over repeated frying cycles the way polyunsaturated oils do. A batch of tallow used for frying can be strained and refrigerated for the next use. Canola oil degrades with each frying cycle, producing more oxidation products.
Tallow French Fries Recipe
Ingredients
- 4 large Russet or Maris Piper potatoes, peeled
- 600ml (2½ cups) beef tallow for frying (SCP Wagyu or Fatworks)
- Fine sea salt — season immediately off the fryer
Method
- Peel the potatoes and cut into fries of even thickness — approximately 1cm × 1cm. Consistency matters for even cooking; irregular cuts produce some overdone and some underdone fries.
- Soak the cut fries in a large bowl of cold water for 30 minutes. This removes surface starch that would cause the fries to stick together and prevents premature browning. Do not skip this step.
- Drain the fries and dry completely with paper towel or a clean kitchen cloth. Any surface water will cause the tallow to spit aggressively when the fries are added. Dry fries fry; wet fries steam.
- First fry: Heat the tallow in a large heavy pot to 325°F (165°C). Use a thermometer — temperature accuracy matters. Fry the potatoes in batches (do not crowd) for 4 minutes until cooked through but not yet golden. Remove and drain on a rack.
- Allow the fries to cool to room temperature — at least 5 minutes. This is the pause between the two fries that makes the double fry work.
- Second fry: Increase tallow temperature to 375°F (190°C). Fry the blanched fries in batches for 3 minutes until deeply golden and crispy.
- Remove immediately to a rack — not paper towel, which traps steam and softens the crust. Season aggressively with fine salt while still hot. Serve within 5 minutes.
Where to Get Tallow
SCP Wagyu Beef Tallow is available on Amazon and is the premium option — rendered from Wagyu cattle, it has a slightly richer, more complex flavour than standard beef tallow. Fatworks Grass-Fed Tallow is the widely available mid-range option. Both produce excellent fries. Store in a sealed glass jar in the refrigerator and strain after each use.
Why tallow and not oil for fries?
Tallow produces a crispier, harder crust that holds longer than any seed oil version because saturated fat sets solid when it cools rather than remaining liquid and soaking back into the fry. Tallow fries are still crispy 20 minutes after cooking. Canola fries go soft within 5 minutes.
Can I reuse the tallow?
Yes. Strain the used tallow through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth to remove potato solids. Refrigerate in a sealed glass jar for up to 2 months. Tallow is more stable than seed oils across repeated frying cycles.
Are these fries seed oil free?
Yes — the only fat is beef tallow. Check any dipping sauce you serve. Primal Kitchen ketchup is seed oil free. Most commercial ketchup brands use canola or soybean oil.
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