Flour tortillas made with lard are the original. The industrial shortening version — widespread from the 1970s onwards — was a cost-cutting substitution that changed the texture, flavour, and nutritional profile of one of the world's great flatbreads. A lard tortilla is soft, pliable, slightly chewy, with a distinct flavour that shortening and vegetable oil cannot replicate. The technique is simple. The fat is everything.
Why Lard Makes Better Tortillas
Lard's fat crystal structure differs from shortening in a way that directly affects tortilla texture. Lard produces a flakier, more pliable tortilla because its fat crystals interfere with gluten development at a specific size that creates tenderness without toughness. Vegetable shortening, refined from hydrogenated seed oils, lacks this crystal structure and produces a tortilla that is softer but less flavourful and considerably less interesting texturally.
Flour Selection
All-purpose flour produces a reliable, slightly chewier tortilla. Bread flour adds more elasticity from the higher gluten content, which makes the tortilla more pliable but harder to roll thin. Low-protein flour (cake flour) produces a more tender, fragile tortilla. All-purpose is the standard for a reason — it balances all these qualities. Use a bleached all-purpose for the most authentic flavour.
Makes 12 tortillas · Prep 20 min + rest · Cook 20 min
Ingredients
- 300g all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
- 60g lard, at room temperature
- 1 tsp salt
- 180ml warm water (not hot)
Method
- Combine flour and salt in a bowl. Add lard and rub into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.
- Add warm water gradually, mixing until a soft dough forms. It should not be sticky.
- Knead on a lightly floured surface for 2 minutes until smooth.
- Divide into 12 equal balls. Cover with a damp cloth and rest for 30 minutes.
- Heat a dry cast iron pan or comal over high heat until very hot.
- Roll each ball into a thin circle, roughly 20cm diameter. They do not need to be perfect.
- Cook each tortilla 60-90 seconds per side until small brown spots appear. Keep wrapped in a clean cloth to stay soft.
Storing and Reheating
Fresh tortillas keep at room temperature wrapped in a clean cloth for up to 2 days. Refrigerate for up to a week. Freeze separated by parchment for up to 3 months. Reheat directly in a dry hot pan for 30 seconds per side, or wrap in foil and warm in a 150°C oven for 10 minutes. Never microwave — it steams them and destroys the texture.
Beyond the Basic: Flavour Variations
- Chipotle tortillas — add 1 tbsp adobo sauce to the water
- Herb tortillas — add 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander or chives to the flour
- Whole wheat — replace half the all-purpose with whole wheat flour for a nuttier flavour
- Lard and butter hybrid — use 40g lard and 20g butter for a richer flavour
Where to find lard?
Most supermarkets carry lard in the baking aisle. Butchers often have leaf lard — the highest quality, made from the fat surrounding the kidneys — which produces the finest tortillas. Avoid hydrogenated lard, which contains trans fats.
Why do my tortillas crack?
The dough is too dry or was not rested long enough. The resting period allows the gluten to relax so the tortilla can be rolled thin without springing back. Add water a tablespoon at a time if the dough feels dry before resting.
Can I make these without lard?
Ghee or butter work as substitutes. Ghee produces a slightly flakier tortilla; butter adds a distinct flavour. Both are significantly better than vegetable oil or shortening.
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