Confit is the oldest fat-preservation technique in European cooking. Before refrigeration, cooking meat submerged in its own rendered fat at a low temperature, then storing it sealed under that fat, kept it edible for months in a cool cellar. Duck confit is the most famous example. Applying the same technique to chicken thighs produces something remarkable — chicken of extraordinary tenderness, completely seasoned through to the bone, that can be stored in the fat for a week and crisped to order in 5 minutes.
The Confit Principle
Confit works at temperatures between 80°C and 95°C — well below the 100°C of boiling water and significantly below normal roasting temperatures. At these temperatures, the collagen in the chicken thigh converts to gelatin slowly, the muscle fibres relax without tightening from the shock of high heat, and the fat surrounding the meat keeps it moist by preventing any water in the meat from evaporating. The result after 2-3 hours is meat of a completely different texture from anything achievable by roasting or frying.
Tallow as the Confit Fat
Duck fat is the traditional confit fat, but duck fat is expensive and not always available. Beef tallow produces an equally excellent confit — the flavour it imparts is subtle, the smoke point is high enough for the crisping stage, and the solid-at-room-temperature characteristic it shares with duck fat means it works as a preservation medium in exactly the same way.
Serves 4 · Prep 12 hr cure · Cook 3 hours
Ingredients
- 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
- 600g-1kg beef tallow (enough to submerge the thighs)
- Cure: 2 tbsp coarse salt, 4 garlic cloves crushed, fresh thyme, fresh bay leaf, 1 tsp black pepper
Method
- Rub chicken thighs with the cure mixture. Refrigerate uncovered 12-24 hours.
- Preheat oven to 90°C.
- Rinse thighs and pat dry.
- Melt tallow in a deep ovenproof dish. Submerge thighs completely in the tallow.
- Cook in the oven 2.5-3 hours until the meat is completely tender and pulling from the bone at the edges.
- Cool in the tallow. Refrigerate submerged in fat — keeps for 1 week.
- To serve: remove thighs from tallow. Place skin-side down in a cold pan. Heat to medium-high. Cook 5-6 minutes until skin is shatteringly crispy. Flip and warm through 2 minutes.
The Crisping
The crisping stage is where confit becomes exceptional. Remove cold thighs from the tallow and place skin-side down in a cold pan. Bring to medium-high heat. The cold-pan method allows the remaining tallow in the skin to render slowly and completely before browning begins, producing skin that is uniformly crispy rather than spotted. 5-6 minutes is usually sufficient.
Do I need that much tallow?
The chicken must be completely submerged. If your dish is narrower, less tallow is required. The tallow is reusable — strain and refrigerate after use, good for several more confits.
Can I confit chicken breast?
Breast becomes too dry at 90°C over 3 hours. The thigh's higher fat and collagen content is what makes confit work. Use thighs.
How do I know when the confit is done?
The meat should be very tender when pierced with a skewer — no resistance. The leg bone should wiggle freely. At 90°C this takes 2.5-3 hours.
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